Upgrade: Ragù alla Bolognese

I've previously posted two recipes in the category of meat sauces: a quick one from all the way back in 2012 and a recreation of Dad's late '70s version in 2015. This time, I'm going back to the roots of the style. Ragù alla bolognese is perhaps the most famous of all meat sauces. The dish originates in the northern Italian city of Bologna. It's a classic with a long history, so I did quite a bit of research ahead of time. The version in The Silver Spoon (Il cucchiaio d'argento - sort of Italy's answer to The Joy of Cooking) is a very traditional and simple take: just mirepoix, ground meat, tomato paste, and water. Traditional bolognese lacks any garlic or herbs and has relatively little tomato content. This is contrary to how I typically construct a quick pasta sauce. Instead, bolognese is all about showcasing the meat, which it does very well. There is so much flavor here, I didn't find myself missing those familiar standbys. 

I also consulted some more modern interpretations, including those of Kenji, Marcella Hazan (Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking), and a few others I found online. I constructed my version to respect the traditional version as much as possible, so I am keeping herbs and tomatoes to a minimum and also leaving garlic out. At the same time, I am including some of the more common ingredients that show up recipes I have found. Pancetta is a common addition, which I have switched out for the more affordable and accessible regular bacon. White wine, milk, and chicken stock provide the cooking liquid. The cheese rinds are my personal addition to give a little flavor boost during cooking. 

I conceived of this recipe very much in the context of the coronavirus pandemic. Using a full four pounds of meat, it produces a lot of sauce. I froze most of it in bags to pull out for easy meals later. In the spirit of corona cuisine, this recipe would be highly adaptable to adjustments in the specifics. For the meat, feel free to experiment with more pork or something more interesting, like lamb or bison. Traditionally, the pasta of choice is fresh tagliatelle, but that's going to have to wait for the upgrade to the upgrade. I used rigatoni, a choice Marcella Hazan calls "irreproachable." Good enough for me!

Ingredients

• 3 lb. ground beef
• 1 lb. ground pork
• 1/2 lb. bacon, diced
• 6 oz. carrots, finely diced (about 3 carrots)
• 6 oz. celery, finely diced (about 5 ribs)
• 1 lb. yellow onion, finely diced (about 2 onions)
• 5 Tbs. tomato paste
• 2 cups dry white wine
• 1 cup milk
• 1 1/2 cups chicken stock (more as needed)
• 5 in. piece Parmesan rind
• 3 bay leaves
• 1/2 cup cream
• Salt and pepper
• Olive oil

To serve

• Choice of pasta
• Chopped flat-leaf parsley
• Grated Parmesan

Instructions

In a very large, lidded sauté pan or dutch oven, heat a little olive oil over high heat. Brown the beef and pork in batches. Season to taste with salt and pepper and use a wooden spoon to break up chunks of meat. I did 4 batches, but this depends on pan size. Lacking a sufficiently large pan to brown and simmer in, the browning could be done in a skillet and transferred to a stock pot for simmering.

Once all meat is browned and set aside, turn the heat to medium. Add the bacon and cook, stirring frequently, until a layer of fat has rendered out. Add the carrots, celery, and onion. Season with salt and pepper and sauté until vegetables are softened and cooked down a bit. 

Add the tomato paste and stir together. Add the wine, turn the heat up to high, and reduce by about half. Add milk, stock, rinds, bay leaves, and the cooked meat. 

Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, and cover. Cook for 1 hour. After simmering 1 hour, remove the lid and continue simmering for 2 more hours. Check occasionally to skim grease, stir, and add stock as needed. I added another half cup after 1 hour.

At this point, the meat should be moist, but relatively little liquid should be left. Bring to a boil and stir in the cream. Serve with pasta, grated Parmesan, and chopped flat-leaf parsley.