Breaded Tenderloin Sandwich

Indiana was my home from 2011 to 2018, a period of time which not only birthed my career in academia, but also this blog and my interest in writing about food. Indiana is surrounded by places with famous local specialties, including Cincinnati (chili), Louisville (hot brown, mint julep), and Chicago (pizza, hot dogs, Italian beef, and more). Although it's not as well known in other parts of the country, most Hoosiers would probably tell you the breaded tenderloin sandwich is their state's most iconic food. Versions of this sandwich can be found at restaurants all across the state. There are subtle variations in how they are made, but if the pork cutlet doesn't hang well outside the bun, it's not a tenderloin. I've seen some as big as a few inches on each side. My personal favorite tenderloin was from our local spot in West Lafayette, Dog N Suds, located just around the corner from our old house. A side of cheese curds and root beer in a frosty mug completes the experience. 

The tenderloin has a lot in common with cutlet dishes from around the world, which regular readers know I love. The breading process uses the classic flour-egg-breadcrumb combination, but the breading is usually coarser and more heterogeneous than a Wiener schnitzel. I used crushed saltine crackers to achieve this, and I think it worked very well. Most diners cook the cutlets in a commercial deep fryer, but for the home version, shallow frying in a skillet gets the job done. The pork is meant to be the star of the show, and the supporting players are up to personal preference. The bun is a usually a basic hamburger bun. The classic toppings are ketchup, mustard, and pickles, but feel free to add others. We put in some lettuce and Kewpie mayonnaise. I had some cucumbers that were on their way out, so I made my own pickles loosely based on Kenji's recipe. 

This is a pretty simple recipe, but one that transports me back, much like the Duane Purvis All-American. Tenderloins do show up in Iowa, as well. The only place I've seen them in South Dakota (so far) is Tastee Treet in Yankton, which serves it with a piece of cheese. While that would never be done in Indiana, it's an interesting variation. It reminds me a bit of how Germans like to sauce their schnitzels, to the horror of Austrians, who only garnish theirs with a lemon slice. When it comes to such debates, if it tastes good to you, you did it right.

Ingredients (for 2 sandwiches)

• 2 slices boneless pork loin, about 5 oz. each
• Salt and pepper
• Flour
• 1 egg
• 20 saltine crackers (about 1/2 sleeve)
• Vegetable oil
• 2 hamburger buns
• Choice of toppings

Instructions

If there is a layer of fat on the outside of the pork loin, trim it off to prevent the pork from curling up as it cooks. Place pork slices in a plastic bag and pound as thin as possible. Once the sandwich is assembled, the meat should extend well past the bun. 

Season both sides with salt and pepper. Put some flour on a plate and dredge the pork on both sides.

Beat the egg in a dish. Place the saltines in a plastic bag and pound with hands until shattered into small pieces. The pieces won't be even, and that is fine. Put the crumbs on a plate. Dip the pork in the egg to fully coat. Press both sides into the cracker crumbs, coating both sides.

Fill a skillet (cast iron works well) with about 1/2 inch of vegetable oil. Heat to about 300 degrees F over medium-high heat. Fry the pork for a few minutes on each side, until golden brown. Work one piece at a time.

While the last piece of pork fries, lightly toast the buns. Assemble the sandwiches with toppings of your choice. This is typically ketchup, mustard, and pickle chips, but mayonnaise and lettuce are good, too.