Tuesday, May 26, 2020

Oyakodon (親子丼)

Oyakodon is a classic Japanese dish within the broader category of donburi, which all consist of a bowl of rice topped with some kind of meat, seafood, or vegetables. Common examples are katsudon (sliced cutlets with egg), unadon (grilled eel), and tekkadon (sliced tuna). The word oyakodon translates to "parent and child donburi," referring to the main ingredients of chicken and egg. Of all the varieties of donburi, oyakodon is one of the easiest to put together at home and is always satisfying. I served it with Japanese potato salad.


It is interesting how different the ethos of Japanese cooking is to that of Chinese. Both cuisines emphasize umami-rich ingredients, but very different ones. Chinese food gets a lot of its punch from fermented bean products, which are much funkier and in-your-face than the kombu (dried kelp) that powers so much of Japanese food. Japanese flavors are subtle, and oyakodon is a perfect example. The entire dish is gently simmered in broth with no searing and no frying. Although sushi tends to get most of the fanfare surrounding Japanese cuisine, humbler dishes like this one deserve some attention, too.

Dashi is the main unusual ingredient here. In a previous post, I mentioned substituting chicken stock for dashi for practical reasons. I no longer condone that substitution, as I consider dashi to be the quintessential Japanese ingredient. The aroma of simmering dashi and soy sauce just can't be missed here. I have had success finding both ingredients in Asian stores, but you can also use powdered instant dashi. I now recommend Marc Matsumoto's dashi recipe, and I consider him a go-to resource on Japanese cooking. I also usually put a little mirin into my oyakodon, but it's not essential, and I wouldn't run out to get it just for this, especially if you're limiting grocery runs these days.

Ingredients
  • 2 chicken thighs, deboned
  • 1/2 onion, sliced into strips
  • 1/2 cup dashi
  • 2 Tbs. Japanese soy sauce (can substitute light Chinese soy sauce if necessary)
  • 2 Tbs. sake
  • 1 Tbs. sugar
  • 1 Tbs. mirin (optional, use if you have on hand)
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 green onion, chopped
  • 2-3 cups (to preference) steamed rice for serving

Instructions

Cut the chicken into bite-sized pieces, about one-inch squares. If the chicken has skin on it, you can either leave it on or remove and save for another use. In a sauté pan or skillet with a tight-fitting lid, combine the dashi, soy sauce, sake, sugar, and mirin (if using). Bring to a boil on high heat, then reduce to medium. 


Add the chicken and onion. Cover and simmer until the onions are soft and chicken is cooked through, about 7 minutes. While this is simmering, crack the eggs into a bowl and beat. 


When the chicken is done, slowly pour the eggs into the pan, distributing evenly. Cover the pan again and continue simmering until the egg is set, about 2-3 minutes. 


To assemble the dish, divide rice in half and place in two large bowls. Spoon half the mixture in each bowl, making sure to include the sauce, which will drip into the rice. Top each bowl with chopped green onion.

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