Upgrade: Portuguese Chicken (葡國雞)

Portuguese chicken (translating literally to pou gwok gai in Cantonese, pu guo ji in Mandarin, and galinha à portuguesa in Portuguese) is a dish that fascinates me endlessly. It's a fusion of east and west that could only have been born in its own specific context. Back when I wrote about it in 2012, I noted that little was written about it (at least in English) on the internet. There's quite a bit more now, but it's still not a widely known dish. It also doesn't show up in any of my Chinese cookbooks. I still don't know if my version is authentic, but I can tell you it tastes good and improves upon my previous one in many ways. One of those can be seen in the photo, where the deeply colored sauce appeals a lot more than the bright yellow of my previous attempt.

Despite the name, Portuguese chicken does not originate in Portugal, but rather the bustling southern Chinese city of Macau, which was an outpost of the Portuguese empire for over 450 years. The food of Macau blends Cantonese cuisine with influences brought from around the world by Portuguese traders. As such, Portuguese chicken features some ingredients not commonly seen in other Chinese dishes. Most recipes feature five main components: chicken, potatoes, onion, coconut milk, and turmeric but diverge from there. Other possible additions include sausage, olives, and bell peppers. Some are simmered on the stovetop, while others are baked as a casserole. In some versions, the casserole includes rice on the bottom or desiccated coconut sprinkled on top. I decided to keep it simple and stay on the stove in a wok. This also makes it easy to thicken and adjust the sauce at the end.

After I wrote my original post, I found out I was not the only member of my family to be a fan of Portuguese chicken. As it turns out, my grandma went to school in Macau for a time and enjoyed it regularly. She informed me back then that my version was incorrect because the chicken and potatoes should be cut into smaller pieces. Cutting smaller does make more sense to eat with chopsticks and also helps everything cook more quickly. Another change I made was to crank up the seasoning and build a more complex flavor in the sauce. I also chose to marinate the chicken this time. Sources vary greatly on what should go in the marinade, but I went with a classic Chinese style. I included just a little dark soy sauce for color - don't overdo it. Some recipes use more spices in the marinade, while I put the into the sauce instead. I did not have any Portuguese chouriço (in fact, I have no idea where one can buy such a thing) but did have some Spanish chorizo on hand that worked well here. Some Cantonese lap cheong would also probably do just fine. The versions I recall from Shanghai did not include any sausage, and that works as well.

Ingredients

• 1 1/4 lb. boneless chicken thighs (4-5 thighs)
• 1 lb. red potatoes
• 1 medium yellow onion (about 1/2 lb.)
• 2 large cloves garlic (about 1 oz. - use more if your cloves are small)
• 1/2 oz. ginger
• 2 Tbs. ground turmeric
• 1 tsp. paprika
• 1 tsp. ground cumin
• 1 cup chicken stock (Chinese style, if possible)
• 1 14 oz. can coconut milk (whisk thoroughly if separated)
• 1/2 cup evaporated milk
• 1 medium tomato
• 1/4 lb. Spanish chorizo or Portuguese chouriço
• Bay leaf
• 2 tsp. corn starch
• Vegetable oil
• Salt, black pepper, and MSG to taste

Marinade

• 2 Tbs. light soy sauce
• 1 Tbs. Shaoxing wine
• 1 tsp. dark soy sauce
• 1/2 tsp. white pepper
• 2 tsp. corn starch

Instructions

Cut the chicken into large chunks, about 1 inch square. Combine with marinade ingredients and move to the fridge for about 1 hour. While the chicken marinates, prepare the rest of the ingredients. Cut potato into small pieces, about 1 inch squares and 1/2 inch thick and keep in a bowl of water until ready to use. Cut the onion and tomato to a large dice. Mince the ginger and garlic. Cut the chorizo into thin slices.

Heat a wok over high heat. Swirl some oil around and stir fry the chicken in batches until starting to brown but not cooked through. Scrape burned bits out and add oil as needed between batches. Set the chicken aside.

Add more oil, swirl around, and add the potatoes. Stir fry until lightly browned and starting to soften. Set aside. 

Add more oil, swirl around, and add the onion. Stir fry until starting to soften, then add garlic and ginger. Stir fry another minute and add the turmeric, cumin, and paprika. Stir together and cook briefly. Add the chicken stock, coconut milk, and evaporated milk. Add the tomato, chorizo, and bay leaf and return the potatoes and chicken to the pan. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to medium. Let the mixture boil gently for 20 minutes or until the potatoes are soft. Stir every few minutes.

After 20 minutes of cooking, use a spider strainer to remove the solid ingredients and set aside. Turn heat to high. Make a slurry with corn starch and water and add to the sauce. Stir in and let reduce for a few minutes. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and MSG if you want. Discard bay leaf, return everything to the pan, and fold together to coat. Serve with rice.