Saturday, September 12, 2020

Summer Squash Frittata

As summer gives way to chillier weather, it's a good time to discuss the results from our garden this year. We planted three types of tomatoes (yellow sunburst, black cherry, and mortgage lifters), which all did well. All four herbs (basil, parsley, rosemary, and mint) were dependable producers, with lots of mint fueling my cocktail experiments. The only real failure this year were the cucumbers, which I suspect a rabbit destroyed early in the season. The previous two summers, I was making pickles left and right, so this was a surprise. We had previously never had much success with squash, but we planted two anyway, a yellow crookneck and a white pattypan. The crookneck has done decently, producing several fruit for us, but the for the last month or so, the pattypan plant has been incredibly prolific. I've been trying all kinds of different ways to cook it, but this frittata was one of my favorites.


When I was first learning to cook, I made frittata quite often, because you can put basically anything in it and it turns out fine. The recipe I posted back in 2012 was definitely a "kitchen sink" sort of frittata, while this one is simpler and more refined, allowing each ingredient to be heard. The bacon-onion combination calls to mind the flavors of the classic flammekueche. The pattypan squash I used here has a very mild flavor, but adds texture to the frittata. I usually let them grow to about a 4-inch diameter. Much bigger, and you'll have to dig the seeds out first. To get a little over a pound of grated squash, I used about two pattypans. You could also easily use crookneck or zucchini squash here. 

I'm not typically prescriptive about what kind of pan to use, but a 10-inch cast iron is ideal for this dish. You want something that's both broiler safe but also nonstick enough to allow the frittata to release. This makes cast iron or carbon steel ideal. If you have a different sized pan, adjust the amounts accordingly. For a 12-inch pan, you would probably need another squash and a few more eggs. This particular pan is a Tramontina from Costco. It's a very versatile pan, and is one of the most frequently used in my kitchen. It's great for shallow frying a schnitzel, searing a steak or a hamburger, or just sautéing vegetables. We can definitely add frittata to that list. 

Ingredients

  • 3 strips thick-cut bacon
  • 1/2 yellow onion, finely diced
  • 1 lb. (a bit more is fine) summer squash (pattypan, zucchini, crookneck)
  • 6 large eggs
  • 1/3 cup grated Swiss cheese
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Equipment
  • 10 inch cast iron skillet

Instructions

Cut the bacon into thin strips, about 1/2 inch wide. Add to the skillet and cook over medium heat until fat is rendered and bacon is becoming crispy. Add the onion and cook a few minutes, until soft. Season with salt and pepper.


While the bacon cooks, cut the squash in half, remove tough stem parts, and grate using the large holes of a grater. Using pattypans, I held on to the rounded edges and left the last inch or so. In batches, wrap up the grated squash and squeeze water out. This reduced the weight by about one third.

Eggs have just gone in

Add the squash to the pan and continue cooking a few more minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Taste the mixture and adjust accordingly. Beat the eggs in a bowl, season with salt, and pour all over the pan. Mix everything together.

Ready to broil

Allow the frittata to cook gently, scraping up the eggs as they set as you would cook scrambled eggs. Once the eggs are about half done (there should still be liquid in the pan), sprinkle the cheese over the top and transfer to the broiler. 


Broil a few minutes, until the top is set and golden brown. Use a spatula to loosen the frittata around the edges, then work your way under to loosen all around. Shake the pan to find any stuck spots. Once the frittata is loose enough to move, put a plate on top, then carefully invert to drop the frittata onto the plate. I slid the frittata back into the pan and repeated the process so the browned, cheesy top would be face up for serving.

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