Thursday, August 22, 2019

San Diego Part 2: Dim Sum and Tacos

On our third day in San Diego, we planned to have dim sum at Jasmine Seafood Restaurant. It is located in an area of northern San Diego with a lot of Asian restaurants and businesses and is one of the few restaurants still offering cart service on weekends. We got there right at opening time before it got too busy. Dim sum is not something we get often, and is quite rare outside major cities with large Cantonese populations. As such, I've often had to scratch my dim sum itch at home. I've previously featured my attempts making turnip cakes and steamed spare ribs. Dim sum at Jasmine was a real treat, and a great opportunity for me to write about the true dim sum experience.


Our first round of dim sum had some classic items. First, har gow, the shrimp dumpling with a translucent wrapper made of rice flour. The best har gow are delicate and not gummy. I have not attempted to make them, but they are definitely on the list. Next, siumai are a pork dumpling shaped somewhat like a basket. The Cantonese style is very different from the Shanghai version I've made. I tried making these once, but didn't get the pork mixture right. Look out for these in the future, as well. Next, we had steamed spare ribs with black beans, which I've covered before. These tender and delicious. The one item we got that I wasn't familiar with was the shark fin dumpling. I was certainly intrigued by the name, as shark fin is banned in many places, including California. I later learned that these dumplings typically contain imitation shark fin, though we couldn't really differentiate the filling from the siu mai

Clockwise from top: siumai, shark fin, spare ribs, har gow

Next up was one of my absolute favorites, the char siu bao. As a home cook, this is the holy grail of dim sum, which I've attempted a few times but never gotten right. I can handle the char siu filling -- it's one of my most frequently cooked items. The fluffy, pillow-like bun, on the other hand, I have not been able to master. At this point, we also had some fried taro dumplings, which I didn't take any pictures of. Those also rank among my favorites, which we've made one (mostly) successful attempt at making. 

Char siu bao

The next item we found were xiaolongbao. These are not a classic Cantonese item, but rather a Shanghainese one. I love them, of course, and the ones we had were very good. The soup explosion  in each dumpling makes for one the most perfect single bites there is. We attempted to make them once, and it was not successful. Both the filling and the wrapper have to be perfect, and we hit neither. Perhaps one day.

Xiaolongbao

Next up is Ariel's favorite dim sum: nai wong bao (custard buns or, as she calls them, "eggy buns"). I've had dim sum many places, and while most restaurants make them, they don't often show up on the carts. I had to ask for them here, but when they did arrive, they were fantastic. We have made them a few times, with varying degrees of success. 

Nai wong bao

Cheung fun are another absolute classic. These are sheets of rice noodles wrapped around a filling into a tube shape. The Chinese name, which translates as "intestine noodle" is wonderfully evocative, but the usual English name is "rice noodle rolls." Jasmine offered all four of the common fillings: beef, shrimp, char siu, and youtiao (fried dough). As there aren't a lot of beef-based dim sum items, I typically get that. The first time the cart came by, we had a lot on our table and passed. It didn't come back until a long time later, so let that be a lesson. We were so excited, we ate half before I remembered to take a picture! We have made these once, and it was a very labor-intensive process, even with two people. They turned out decently, though I would make some changes for next time.

Beef cheung fun

The next item is a deep-fried crab ball. The crab meat is formed around a piece of sugar cane which serves as a handle, breaded, and fried. They were served with a sweet chili sauce. Although I'm a fan, I've never thought to try making these.

Fried crab balls

At this point, we had already eaten way too much, but when I saw a special cart come by frying turnip cakes tableside, I had to have some. 

Turnip cake cart

Some turnip cakes are better than others, and it's usually a texture thing. This is determined by how finely the turnip is grated and how much cornstarch was added. The turnip cakes at Jasmine had a light, creamy texture that I've never experienced before. On top of that, freshly frying them on the cart took them to the next level. 

Turnip cakes

Overall, this was an excellent dim sum experience. We arrived early and took our time with it. Dim sum for two is a bit difficult, as you want to try everything, but have to pace yourself. We definitely over-ordered, but you only have one honeymoon. We ended up lounging around the rooftop pool at the hotel in the afternoon as we digested. 

For our evening meal, we headed south to Chula Vista, about halfway between downtown San Diego and the Mexican border. The ticket seller at the maritime museum recommended Taqueria Revolución, a local joint we never would have discovered otherwise. His recommendation was spot on. We each ordered three tacos. I had adobada (pork cooked on a rotisserie, similar to a doner kebab), birria (braised beef), and carnitas (slow-cooked pork). Ariel tried the adobada, pollo asado (grilled chicken), and carne asada (grilled beef). The adobada tacos were our overall favorite. 

Adobada, birria, and carnitas tacos

We also both had a cup of horchata, the Mexican rice drink. We've been fans of horchata for a while and order it any opportunity we get. This was one of the best I've had, and I'm going to try making some with our new blender. We were also offered cups of beef broth, a byproduct of the birria tacos which was packed with flavor. 

Beef broth

After dinner, we walked back to Little Italy to visit Salt and Straw for ice cream. With several locations along the west coast, they are know for their unusual flavor combinations. Ariel went for the almond brittle with salted ganache, and I had a half-and-half of the coffee and bourbon and the carrot cake ice creams. 

Ice cream on the piazza
In the next post, we'll take a break from all the eating for some naval tourism!

Saturday, August 17, 2019

San Diego Part 1: Little Italy

We thought it would be fun to use the blog to share our San Diego honeymoon. While we certainly enjoy small town life in South Dakota, this has been a great opportunity to break out of that bubble and experience everything a major, cosmopolitan city has to offer. As this is still No Free Lunch, this series of posts will focus on food, but I'll also mention other things we did.

We had an early flight out of Omaha, so we spent our first night there. Dinner was at Hiro 88 in downtown Omaha. While the focus is mainly on sushi, they also have some Chinese items. We split some sushi, sashimi, and walnut shrimp. Sushi is one thing we really miss living in Vermillion, and we definitely take opportunities to get it. While we enjoyed this meal, more sushi is to come later.

Sashimi, sushi, and walnut shrimp

Our first few nights in San Diego were in the Little Italy neighborhood. The large Italian population in San Diego was associated with the fishing industry, but the neighborhood is now a bustling area full of shopping and dining. There are eateries across the spectrum, including coffee, gelato, pizza, pastries, and higher-end dining. It's a fun area with lots to do without feeling overly inundated with tourists.

Piazza della Famiglia at night

We stopped at Caffe Italia for lunch and coffee on our first day. I enjoyed a prosciutto and fig panino, while Ariel had a tacchino (turkey, pepper, and pesto) panino. 

Tacchino (left) and prosciutto and fig (right) panini

Afterwards, we spent the afternoon at the San Diego Maritime Museum. We explored their collection of ships, including a Soviet submarine that almost defrosted the Cold War and HMS Surprise, the ship used in the filming of Master and Commander.

HMS Surprise with submarine B-59 in the background

We returned to Little Italy for dinner at Buon Appetito for one of the finest meals of the trip. The menu was so full of Italian classics that it was hard to choose. To start, we split a calamari and zucchini appetizer. 

Fried calamari and zucchini

For the main course, I couldn't pass up the ossobuco with saffron risotto. Like most braised meats, it doesn't photograph particularly well, but it tasted great. Notice the small fork for digging the marrow out of the bone.

Ossobuco with saffron risotto

Ariel had the squid ink pasta, which neither of us have had the opportunity to get since my post on St. Louis seven years ago. The pasta came with a variety of seafood.

Squid ink pasta

The next morning, we walked around the Little Italy Mercato, a huge farmer's market that takes up five full blocks of Date Street. There were tons of local products to sample, from fruit to dips, to cheese, and more.

Ariel at the Japanese Friendship Garden

Afterward, we headed to Balboa Park and explored the Japanese Friendship Garden in Balboa Park and listened to some Beethoven at the organ pavilion.

Matcha plus Beethoven is a good time!

We made a quick stop at the tea pavilion for iced thai tea and matcha drinks before moving on to the Air and Space Museum. Some of the highlights there were the incredible collection of World War I aircraft (mostly airworthy replicas, but a few originals) and the command module from Apollo 9. 

Apollo 9 command module

Our last dinner in Little Italy was thai food at AAHARN. Thai is another cuisine we used to have frequently in Indiana, but have few opportunities to get now. We shared mango and duck curry and pad thai with river prawns. 

Mango and duck curry

The river prawns were enormous, almost like mini lobsters, and a totally new experience for us. They have a firmer texture closer to lobster, but with a mild shrimp flavor. The chili sauce they gave us on the side kicked it up in a good way.

Pad thai with river prawns

After dinner, we stopped at Pappalecco, an Italian cafe down the street from our hotel, for gelato. That covers our first two days in San Diego. There's already been some great food and experiences, but we're just getting started!