Braised Spare Ribs with Pasta

It's great to be back to No Free Lunch! I'll mainly blame my absence on a particularly busy time at work, plus caring for a baby at home. The other reason is that we've had to go dairy and soy free, at least for the time being. This threw a huge wrench in the works for my cooking, as long time readers will know my love for both cheese and various fermented soy bean products. This has left me in a bit of a rut, cooking-wise, and a lot of our old standbys have gone out the window. Recently, I've developed this dairy and soy free braised spare ribs recipe. It's loosely inspired by Mark Bittman's simple braised ribs recipes featured his book, Mark Bittman's Kitchen Matrix. This is where I got the idea to have ribs with pasta. It's a winning combination, and I don't miss the dairy too much here.

Adding some umami-rich ingredients to braises is an idea that's been floating around the internet for a while (Kenji was an early proponent on Serious Eats). Soy sauce and parmesan rinds are usually my go-to choices, exemplified by my chicken and mushroom pasta from a few years ago. Although soy sauce isn't in that recipe, I have subsequently included some mushroom-flavored dark soy sauce. Since we've had to give up both soy and dairy, I've turned to tomato paste and anchovies for this recipe. I also love some acidity in this type of dish, and include the usual splash of vinegar. If you don't have to omit dairy, I couldn't fault adding some grated parmesan at the table, but we did not do that, of course.

The other benefit of braised ribs is that they are an ideal food for a baby! We have been introducing Shayna to food using baby-led weaning, where we let her explore food on her own rather than feeding her purees. Early on, babies need food with a long shape to grab onto, and ribs provide this with a built-in handle. She's taken to them like a star!

Savory Kolaches

Going to the farmer's market every Saturday was one of our favorite things to do in Bloomington. While we certainly enjoyed the produce on offer, we really went for the breakfast options. Whether that was crepes and croques at Le Petit Café, Brown County Coffee, or Aahaa Chai, there was always something tasty to be found. Our all-time favorite, though, was Sweet Claire Bakery, which always had a line around the corner. It is here we were introduced to kolaches: sweet buns with lots of different filling options. More than two years after we left town, we have greatly missed them... until now. Ariel got in touch with the proprietor and got the dough recipe, and I went to work dreaming up some fillings. We were blown away with how good the results were, and I'm excited to share them.

Kolaches originated in Central Europe, like so many other delicious things, made their way to the United States with the immigrants who loved them. Czech communities have made them especially popular in Texas. From what I can tell, the original Czech version has strictly sweet fillings, but creative American cooks have moved them in a savory direction. We came up with two fillings, loosely inspired by what we remembered from the kolaches we had in Bloomington. Both types were delicious.

The first is a braised chicken I've been calling "adobo chicken," not to be confused with the grilled version I posted last summer. This was fairly similar to my pulled pork recipe, but uses chicken thighs and tomatoes. It's a little spicy on its own, but this balances out inside the bun with. The filling is rounded out with half a hard-boiled egg. The chicken turned out very well and would also be great in a taco. Because it is a saucy filling, there were some structural problems on the bottoms, so it's important to make sure they are thick enough to hold up. It wasn't too bad, but it's something to watch out for. The second emulates a classic breakfast sandwich with sausage, egg, and cheese. The main question here was how to do the eggs. I decided to make French-style rolled omelettes and put half an omelette in each kolache. This worked out very well because they hold up well while not drying out. These kolaches turned out great. The only adjustment we would make is adding a little more cheese. 

The dough recipe is reproduced from what we received from Sweet Claire. The original recipe was given in baker's percentages, with this set to make 12 kolaches. As such, the amounts are all in grams - a little unusual for this blog. A good scale is a great addition to any kitchen. We made 6 of each type of kolache. The chicken recipe makes enough for all 12 buns, so I saved half of it for later. All in all, the results were simply fantastic, and we're already looking forward to making them again and trying some different fillings. 

Sichuan-Style Braised Spare Ribs (紅燒排骨)

This recipe is based on one I meant to post back in May, but I wasn't quite satisfied with how it turned out. The original was my version of Pei Mei's Sichuan-style beef stew. It is a dish in the hongshao (red cooked) style of braised meat, similar to Chairman Mao's pork belly. This time, though, I decided to adapt it to spare ribs, which I had in the freezer. The result was thoroughly enjoyable. Although I still prefer the pork belly version, this is a nice change of pace. The ribs fall right off the bone and the sauce pairs well with rice. While I'm not sure this would be considered an "authentic" Sichuan-style recipe, I do think I've respected the style, and it turned out well.

The main difference in terms of seasoning between this and Chairman Mao's pork belly is that it swaps out the sugar for doubanjiang, the hot bean paste which is a cornerstone of Sichuan flavor. Using just two tablespoons gives the sauce a background heat, but doesn't take over. It is, however, very salty. This makes it effectively immortal in the refrigerator, but can be overpowering. While the rice does balance this out, I might compensate by cutting the soy sauce back a bit next time. Other than the garlic, everything else here has appeared in my previous hongshao recipes. The pork stock I used is the same as in the Chairman's pork. If you like Sichuan peppercorns, they can also be added. With how big the flavors are in this dish, it works well with a simple green vegetable as a side. We had stir-fried snap peas.

Chairman Mao's Red-Cooked Pork Belly (毛氏紅燒肉)

Red-cooked pork belly is popular in many parts of China, with each region having its own version. I first mentioned this dish in this year's birthday special, but I have been working on the recipe since last year. My love for red-cooked pork belly goes back further still. I still remember eating Dongpo pork belly, the local specialty, in Hangzhou back in 2009. It's become almost a must-order at Chinese restaurants. My recipe is based on the Hunanese version, which first came to our attention at the wonderful Lao Szechuan restaurant in Sioux Falls. Maoshi hongshaorou translates to "Mao family red-cooked meat," though rou by itself typically implies pork. The name refers to this supposedly being the favorite food of Chairman Mao, who was a native of Hunan. He may have been wrong about many things, but definitely not this. In my opinion, it's one of the world's most delicious foods, and as you will see, not too difficult to make.

This recipe is my own, but I used several different sources in my research. These included Peimei (volume I, in the Western China section), The Woks of Life, The Kitchn, and Asian Dumpling Tips (based on Fuschia Dunlop). My main frustration making this and other hongshao dishes is what to do with all the liquid. Many recipes claim it will reduce during cooking, even though that cooking is covered. This makes no sense. Peimei says nothing at all about it. What I did here is uncover the pan and continue cooking for another 30 minutes, then remove the pork and boil it down. I don't go as far as some, which reduce it to just a coating for the pork as I like a little to soak into the rice when serving. The extra uncovered cooking also ensures the pork gets incredibly tender, which the initial hour does not always achieve. A lot of fat renders out of pork belly during cooking, but no source I have found mentions skimming. The fat left in the sauce is what gives the pork its characteristic sheen when coated.

The Mao-style pork belly seems to differ from other hongshaorou varieties in its inclusion of spices. The seasoning profile is quite similar to my recent post on Noble Consort Chicken. I used ginger, star anise, and Chinese cinnamon. Chinese cinnamon, also known as cassia, is distinguished by thicker bark than the more common Ceylon cinnamon. The sauce is sweetened with rock sugar, which I got at a Chinese store, but it should work fine with regular white sugar. With my supply of Shaoxing wine gone, I've gone back to Amontillado (Pastora, a cheap one from Trader Joe's). It's definitely not the same, but it does work. The pork is from Costco. We usually cut it up when we get it home, and then freeze in two batches.

The last ingredient I want to mention is pork stock. I made this myself from two pork butt bones, simmered for about 5 hours with ginger and scallion. It's super meaty tasting and I'm looking forward to trying it in other dishes. I also stripped the meat off the bones and added some light soy sauce and scallions for a delicious treat Ariel called "the most unbelievable thing you've ever made." Since I had it, I threw it in here, but you can certainly just use more water. As with all my homemade stocks, I don't add salt until I actually cook with it, and this dish is a perfect example for why that is. With the amount of soy sauce I used, hongshaorou the salt level is just about right as it is. Remember, you can always add more, but you can't take it away.

Upgrade: Ragù alla Bolognese

I've previously posted two recipes in the category of meat sauces: a quick one from all the way back in 2012 and a recreation of Dad's late '70s version in 2015. This time, I'm going back to the roots of the style. Ragù alla bolognese is perhaps the most famous of all meat sauces. The dish originates in the northern Italian city of Bologna. It's a classic with a long history, so I did quite a bit of research ahead of time. The version in The Silver Spoon (Il cucchiaio d'argento - sort of Italy's answer to The Joy of Cooking) is a very traditional and simple take: just mirepoix, ground meat, tomato paste, and water. Traditional bolognese lacks any garlic or herbs and has relatively little tomato content. This is contrary to how I typically construct a quick pasta sauce. Instead, bolognese is all about showcasing the meat, which it does very well. There is so much flavor here, I didn't find myself missing those familiar standbys. 

I also consulted some more modern interpretations, including those of Kenji, Marcella Hazan (Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking), and a few others I found online. I constructed my version to respect the traditional version as much as possible, so I am keeping herbs and tomatoes to a minimum and also leaving garlic out. At the same time, I am including some of the more common ingredients that show up recipes I have found. Pancetta is a common addition, which I have switched out for the more affordable and accessible regular bacon. White wine, milk, and chicken stock provide the cooking liquid. The cheese rinds are my personal addition to give a little flavor boost during cooking. 

I conceived of this recipe very much in the context of the coronavirus pandemic. Using a full four pounds of meat, it produces a lot of sauce. I froze most of it in bags to pull out for easy meals later. In the spirit of corona cuisine, this recipe would be highly adaptable to adjustments in the specifics. For the meat, feel free to experiment with more pork or something more interesting, like lamb or bison. Traditionally, the pasta of choice is fresh tagliatelle, but that's going to have to wait for the upgrade to the upgrade. I used rigatoni, a choice Marcella Hazan calls "irreproachable." Good enough for me!

Upgrade: Guinness Stew

I've recently found myself thinking about the earliest days of No Free Lunch. I was 23, in my second semester of grad school, and I didn't really know what I was doing. I had only been seriously trying to cook for myself for about a year and a half at that point, but I did my best. These days, I'm blogging with an enthusiasm I haven't felt since those heady days in 2012. Going back through my old recipes, there's a lot of room for improvement with all I've learned in the last 8 years. Thus begins a new semi-regular feature: No Free Lunch Upgrades. I'm going to recreate some of my old favorites, maintaining the overall structure of the dishes, but upgrading them with better technique and ingredients.

Guinness stew was my fourth-ever recipe, and represented an important step in the development of how I cook and write about cooking. It's my Goldfinger, if you will. The basic recipe is actually pretty good, and I didn't change it too much. Instead of generic "stew meat," I use a chuck roast and break it down myself. This has the advantage of full control over the size of the pieces and selection of a well-marbled piece. Instead of beef bouillon, I use chicken stock, pumped up with some tomato paste and soy sauce to add complexity. The last change is removing the potatoes from the actual stew and serving with mashed potatoes instead.

Braised Chuck Roast with Parsnips

Braised meats are something of a passion of mine, which was amplified in the cold of winter this year. That being said, a good pot roast is just as good as summer rolls around. I've recently become a big fan of beef chuck. It's inexpensive, versatile, and actually quite forgiving. Compared with brisket, chuck has a lot more marbling, keeping it moist as it cooks. This summer, we are trying out a new (to us) CSA program and have ended up with an abundance of root vegetables. This turned out to be a good way to use our parsnips, although I have also made it with potatoes instead.

My recipe is loosely based on Kenji's "All-American Pot Roast" from The Food Lab book. As with many of his recipes, there's a lot going on there that on a typical day, I don't always feel like doing. My personal spin is to boost the flavor by combining both styles of Chinese soy sauces (light and dark). As usual, I used Pearl River Bridge, which can be found in most Asian grocery stores. 

Ingredients

• 2 lb. chuck roast
• 1/2 lb. onion, sliced (about 2 small or 1 large onion)
• 1/2 lb. carrot, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 2 stalks celery, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 5 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
• 1 Tbs. flour
• 1 cup red wine
• 1 Tbs. dark soy sauce
• 1 Tbs. light soy sauce
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tsp. dry oregano
• 1 - 1 1/2 cup chicken stock
• 1 lb. parsnips
• Vegetable oil (can also use bacon fat)
• Salt and pepper to taste

Instructions

Preheat oven to 300 degrees F with rack in the middle position.

Heat some oil in a dutch oven or heavy saute pan on medium-high heat. If you want to kick it up a bit, you can use bacon fat here. Season the roast all over with kosher salt and black pepper. Sear the roast on all sides (including the edges) until well browned. Set aside.

Roast after browning

Add more oil as needed and turn the heat down to medium. Cook the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic with a bit of salt for a few minutes. Add flour and stir to incorporate, cooking a few more minutes.

Deglaze with red wine, stir well, and bring to a boil. Let the wine reduce a few minutes. Add the soy sauce, bay leaf, and oregano. Nestle the roast back in and top up with chicken stock. Bring to a boil and transfer to the oven. Cover with a lid slightly ajar. 

Ready for the oven

Cook for 2 hours, checking once to flip the meat over. While the roast cooks, peel the parsnips and cut into one inch chunks. Add the parsnips, cover, and cook one more hour.

If preparing ahead, let everything cool then chill in the refrigerator overnight. This will allow the grease to congeal to be easily removed. If not preparing ahead, remove the meat to a cutting board and skim the liquid as best you can. 

Meat after braising

Begin reducing the braising liquid on the stove. While this is happening, slice the roast. When the liquid has reduced to your desired consistency, return the meat to the pan. Turn the heat off and let stand for 20 minutes before serving. The roast goes well with crusty bread.

Pulled Pork

If I had to choose one favorite cut of meat, it would probably be pork shoulder. It's a terrifically versatile cut that's popped up quite a few times on No Free Lunch, and it's usually fairly inexpensive. You can easily find a large shoulder roast (sometimes called a "Boston Butt") at most grocery stores, or at Sam's Club for a few dollars a pound. I generally separate the roast into two sections. I cut right at the edge of the shoulder blade to have a smaller bone-in roast and a boneless section that can be sliced into long strips for char siu. With the bone-in section, I either trim the meat off for grinding (the fat content is perfect for potstickers) or cook it whole, as I've done with this pulled pork recipe. If you trim off the meat, you can save the bone for making soup.

I have been a fan of pulled pork for years, but for some reason, I never tried making it at home until a few months ago. I did a quick survey of various braised pork recipes online to get a general idea, and devised this one myself. It is excellent in tacos, but can also be eaten with rice and some roasted vegetables. It takes well to freezing, and when I teach evening classes, I like having food ready to go in advance.

Chipotles in adobo are a key ingredient in this recipe. These are smoked jalapeños in a brown sauce, usually found in a can. I've been experimenting with these for a while, and most frequently use them as part of a marinade for grilled chicken. On their own, chipotles are very spicy, so you do need to be careful to add them in moderation. I've had no problem getting them from a regular supermarket. For the beer, I used a dark Belgian-style brew, but you can really use anything decent. The first time, I used a pilsner, and it turned out well. Although I haven't tried it, I would think something like Negra Modelo would be a great, affordable choice that's somewhat on-theme.

Ingredients

• 1 bone-in pork shoulder roast, about 4-5 pounds
• Vegetable oil
• Limes for serving
• Salt to taste

Rub (approximate)

• 2-3 tsp salt
• 1 tsp black pepper
• 2 tsp cumin
• 2 tsp paprika
• 1 tsp smoked paprika
• 1 tsp ground coriander

Braising liquid

• 1 yellow onion, diced
• 4 cloves garlic, smashed
• 1 bottle of beer
• 1 orange
• 4 chipotles in adobo sauce, chopped
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tsp oregano
• 2 tsp dark soy sauce
• Chicken stock as needed

Instructions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Heat a little vegetable oil in a dutch oven or other similar vessel on medium-high heat. Rub the pork all over with salt and the rest of the rub. Brown the pork on all six sides, then set it aside.

Pork during browning

Add the onion and garlic to the pan and brown for a few minutes. Deglaze with the beer. Squeeze out the orange into the pan. Add the chipotles with a bit of their sauce, bay leaf, oregano, and soy sauce. Return the pork to the pan. Top up with chicken stock so that the pork is almost completely covered with liquid.

Ready to go in the oven

Cover the pan and transfer to the oven. Cook for about 3 hours, until fork tender. 90 minutes in, check on the roast and flip it over. Remove the pan from the oven. Take out the pork and place on a plate.

After 3 hours of braising

Use two forks to pull the meat apart into shreds. The meat should come right off the bone and tear apart easily. Large chunks of fat can be discarded.

Removing the grease

Transfer the pork to a ziploc bag or other container and refrigerate for later. Place the entire pan of sauce in the refrigerator and chill for a few hours, or overnight. The excess grease will congeal on the top of the sauce and can be easily removed. Remove the bay leaf.

Ready to serve

When ready to serve, add the meat back to the pan and bring up to heat on medium heat. Stir to thoroughly coat the meat with sauce. Salt to taste. Serve with lime wedges to squeeze on the pork. Leftover pork can easily be frozen for later use.

Braised Brisket for Rosh Hashanah

Tonight was the start of Rosh Hashanah - the Jewish new year. We usually have brisket twice a year, the other occasion being Passover. Ariel's always used the same family recipe, and it's been no secret that I'm not really a fan. While I do think ketchup has some interesting and tasty applications (see lovers' shrimp and sweet and sour pork), it just doesn't work for me in brisket. This time, though, I was asked to make the brisket. While I certainly respect tradition, I was excited to strike out on my own. 

Although I had an overall flavor profile in mind, I had never cooked this cut before, so I did some research ahead of time (Daniel Gritzer's article and accompanying recipe was a helpful resource). Brisket is unique in that it is both tough with connective tissue, but also is quite lean, a combination that requires care. The consensus seems to be that all of the cooking must be at low heat and covered. 

I wasn't originally going to blog this one, but it turned out so well that I thought it worth a short post. Because of this, the recipe is not as precise as usual. This is one dish where precision isn't particularly important, and I didn't measure at all. I went for a classic slow-cooked beef style and it ended up tender but still moist with a very deep, flavorful sauce. Our holiday meal also included matzo ball soup, challah, and the traditional apples and honey.

Ingredients

• One piece beef brisket (mine was about 2 lb. - on the small side, but you can easily scale this up)
• 4 carrots, sliced into small chunks
• 3 stalks celery, sliced
• 1 1/2 medium yellow onions, diced
• 4 cloves garlic, smashed
• 1 cup dry red wine
• 1 14.5 oz. can whole peeled tomatoes
• Chicken stock, as needed
• Splash of dark soy sauce
• Splash of light soy sauce
• 1 Tbs dijon mustard
• 1 sprig fresh rosemary (can substitute dried)
• A few sprigs fresh parsley
• 2 bay leaves
• Flour or Wondra for thickening
• Vegetable oil
• Salt and pepper

Instructions

A good choice of cooking vessel is needed. The optimal choice is something we can use to brown on the stovetop, cover, then transfer to the oven. A lid is helpful, but foil can be used. A large dutch oven or saute pan that can fit your brisket works well. 

Ahead of time, prepare the vegetables as listed. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F. Heat some oil in the pan, enough to cover the bottom. Pat the brisket dry and salt and pepper both sides. With the pan very hot, sear the brisket on both sides for a few minutes until well browned. Do your best to ensure good pan contact for an even sear. Set the brisket aside. 

Next, saute the carrots, celery, onion, and garlic. Add a little salt and pepper. If your pan is large enough, this can all be done at once. When the vegetables have softened, deglaze with wine. Let this cook down a little. While that is happening, transfer the tomatoes to a bowl and smash them up with your hands. Add to the pan. Return the brisket to the pan and add enough chicken stock to mostly cover the meat. Add soy sauce, mustard, and herbs. Stir these in.

Cover the pan and transfer to the oven. Let cook for about 3 1/2 hours, though this may vary depending on the size of the brisket. I flipped it over halfway through. 

Once the slow-cooking is complete, take the brisket out and let stand about 30 minutes. Use a slotted spoon or spider to remove the vegetables. Set these aside in a bowl. While the brisket is resting, reduce the sauce on the stove. Add a thickening agent to your taste. Whisking Wondra into the sauce works well, though you can also use a flour slurry. Taste the sauce and add salt and/or pepper to taste. I only needed a bit of pepper at this point. Turn off the burner and leave the pan there.

The brisket at serving

Thinly slice the brisket across the grain. Return the brisket slices and the vegetables to the sauce. Mix together to coat the meat, cover, and let stand for 30 more minutes before serving.

Notes

If you want to adjust this dish for Passover, a few substitutions or omissions need to be made. Specifically, the more processed ingredients won't work, as soy sauce contains wheat and mustard contains corn syrup. I like soy sauce in a braised or marinated dish (my usual mix of dark and light) for the color and savory flavor, but I don't think omitting them would break the dish. One could also use dry mustard in place of dijon mustard. Of course, flour as a thickening agent needs to be replaced by something like potato starch. 

Soy & Vinegar Braised Spare Ribs

Long-time readers will surely know I am a big fan of stews and braises. Normally, when I make ribs, I go with back ribs and grill them. I was inspired by Mark Bittman's "3 Ways to Do Ribs" to try braising spare ribs. I created this dish using his basic technique and a flavor profile inspired by Pei Mei's various stew recipes. This turns out to be a winning combination. Her stew recipes seem to skip the time-honored step (at least in French cooking) of browning the meat before adding the liquid. The meat falls right off the bone, and the vinegar gives it a tangy kick. I originally developed this recipe using pork shoulder roast cut into cubes, which is also a good option. I suspect a beef chuck roast would also work well. 

It's time to talk about soy sauce. Until recently, I haven't given the topic much thought and basically used green cap Kikkoman for everything. I'm not an expert on the subject, but I have switched to using a proper Chinese soy sauce. For this, I used Pearl River Bridge light soy sauce, available for a few dollars at Asian grocery stores. I'm also trying out different vinegar brands. For this recipe, I used half and half Kong Yen (my usual brand) and the more pungent Gold Plum. I like both, but find the Gold Plum needs to be cut a little.

Ingredients

• 2 lb. spare ribs (use the larger end of the rack)
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 Tbs grated ginger
• 4 green onions, chopped
• 1/2 cup Chinese light soy sauce
• 1/2 cup black vinegar
• 1 Tbs sesame oil
• 2 Tbs sherry/rice wine
• 1 tsp five spice powder
• 1 Tbs sugar
• Vegetable oil

Instructions

Preheat oven to 350 F. Cut the meat into individual ribs (I had 8 pieces). Heat a little vegetable oil in a dutch oven or other oven-safe pan with a lid on medium high heat. In batches, brown the ribs on two sides. I found it easiest to brown the cut sides, but this may depend on your ribs. Set the ribs aside.

Turn the heat down to medium. Briefly saute the garlic, ginger, and green onion. Add all remaining ingredients and mix together. Return the ribs to the pan, in a single layer, if possible. Turn heat up and bring to a boil. Cover the pan and transfer to the oven. Bake for about 1 hour.

Remove the ribs and set aside. There will likely be a lot of grease that rendered out during cooking floating on top of the braising liquid. The easiest way to get rid of this is by making the ribs a day ahead of time and refrigerating over night. The fat will then be easy to scrape off, and you can reheat the ribs by putting the whole dish back in the oven. Otherwise, tilt the pan and use a spoon to carefully skim off the grease. Drizzle some braising liquid on the ribs and serve. I served with steamed rice and stir fried napa cabbage.

Carbonade Flamande

No Free Lunch has recently passed two great milestones: the three-year anniversary of my first post and 10,000 views. I am always amazed by how many views the blog continues to get, even through the long period of hibernation, so whether you are a long-time reader or first-time visitor, I appreciate you stopping by! As one of my earliest posts, just a few days short of 3 years ago, was my recipe for Guinness Stew, it seems appropriate to mark the occasion with another beer-based beef stew.

Carbonade flamande, known as stoverij in Flemish, is a traditional Belgian dish that I have been wanting to feature for a while now, and there is no better time than this cold and snowy January. I scoured the internet for recipes, and came up with this one. Carbonade has three main ingredients: beef, onions, and beer. Other than those three things, the recipes vary quite a bit, but most emphasize the sweet-and-sour aspect of the dish. As such, I have made sure to include both brown sugar and cider vinegar. My version also has carrots. Although they are not a "core" ingredient, they add some color, some variety, and some more sweetness. As with many slow cooked dishes which probably have roots in "peasant food" (cassoulet would be another), I try not to get too hung up on what is or is not traditional. The spirit of this style of food is to use what is available to create something more than the sum of its relatively humble parts.

Ingredients

• 3 lb beef, cut into 1-2 inch chunks (see notes below)
• 3 onions
• 2 carrots
• 3 Tbs flour
• 1 1/2 cups (one 12 oz bottle) ale (see below for discussion)
• 1 1/2 cups beef stock
• 2 Tbs brown sugar
• 2 Tbs apple cider vinegar
• 1 Tbs mustard
• 2-3 bay leaves
• Dried thyme
• Salt and pepper
• Vegetable oil

The beef I used here was a big package of pre-cut "beef for stew" from Sam's Club. Any inexpensive cut should do. In the sources I found, there was a wide variety of beer recommendations. As with wine, I would stick with the old rule of "only cook with what you would drink." That said, it does feel like kind of a waste to toss a bottle Trappist ale into a stew. At the same time, you do want something with a good, strong flavor to impart to the stew. Sticking to the Belgian theme, I went with a Summit Abbey Ale. This is a strong, Belgian-style ale that I had something of a windfall of a few years ago, and have been "aging" ever since. My point here is that you should go with what you like. On the same note, I probably should have used a more authentic mustard, but Dijon is what I had, so that's what went in, at the risk of veering into boeuf bourguignon territory.

Instructions

Ideally, we will use just one pot for the whole process, so choose something you are comfortable searing meat in, but that will also be big enough to simmer the stew. A dutch oven or a copper stew pan (as pictured here) does nicely. Copper pans are useful for getting just the right amount of sticking from the meat, as well.

Season the beef with salt and pepper. Patience is the key to browning the meat. Work in batches, searing the beef pieces in the pot with a little oil. Resist the temptation to speed things up by cramming more pieces in -- the browning will be more successful if you don't crowd them. I found the sweet spot to brown well, but not burn was halfway between medium-high and high heat. Sear one side, then flip, sear the other, and set aside. Quite a bit of fond will form on the bottom of the pan, and that's a good thing.

While the beef is cooking, you can prepare the vegetables. Slice the onions into strips. Peel the carrots and cut them up. I went for bigger pieces, cutting the carrots into 3-4 segments, and then halving or quartering these pieces, depending on thickness.

When all the beef is done and set aside, turn the heat down to medium and add some more oil. Cook the carrots and onions for about 15 minutes, stirring frequently. These should be well softened. Add the flour, and stir to coat. [In the interest of full disclosure, I forgot this last step, and added the flour after the stock and beer, making sure to mix it into a paste with water. This worked out fine.]

Ready to simmer

Pour in the stock and beer, then scrape up any bits left stuck to the pan. Add brown sugar, vinegar, mustard, bay leaves, and a good dusting of thyme. Stir everything together. Turn up the heat and bring to a boil. Once boiling, turn heat down to low and simmer, covered, for 2 1/2 hours. By this point, the beef should be fall-apart tender. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Serve the stew with the starch of your choice. Potatoes, french fries, noodles, or rice are good options. You can't go wrong with a piece of crusty bread, either.

Easy Chicken Cassoulet

It's that time of year again, folks, and of course, I mean it's Bastille Day. Is there any better way to celebrate than by storming our hunger? Non. This dish is essentially a simplified and easy-to-make version of cassoulet, with inexpensive and relatively easily found ingredients. Along with some variants, it has become one of the most common and favorite meals in our house, where it is simply known as "beans." 

The basic formula lends itself to variation, substitutions, and experimentation for many bean-based dishes; the recipe here is really just a suggestion. Swapping the mustard for some garam masala and coconut milk puts an Asian spin on the dish, for example. Different meats (duck, of course, among others) or different types of beans can work well, too. If changing the bean type, you should be careful to stick with beans that hold their shape well after a long cooking time. Any type of kidney bean, as well as chickpeas fit the bill nicely.

Ingredients

• 4 chicken thighs, skin removed
• 1 large onion, diced
• 5 carrots, peeled and diced
• 3 stalks celery, diced
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 smoked sausage or kielbasa, sliced
• 1/2 tbs butter
• Olive oil
• 2 cans white kidney beans, drained and rinsed
• 1 can butter beans, drained and rinsed
• 2 cups chicken stock
• 3 tbs Dijon mustard
• 1/2 large lemon
• 1 sprig fresh parsley, removed from stem
• 1 bay leaf
• Herbes de Provence
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Flour or Wondra for thickening

Instructions

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a Dutch oven or large pot, heat a bit of olive oil on medium-high heat. Rub both sides of the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. Brown the chicken on both sides, then remove from the pot and set aside. Add butter and more olive oil as needed. Add the onion, carrots, celery, garlic, and sausage. Cook the mixture until the vegetables become soft. Salt and pepper to your preference.

Next, add the chicken back in, along with the beans and chicken stock. Squeeze the juice from the lemon into the pot, then stir in mustard, parsley, Herbes de Provence (a few good shakes), and bay leaf. Finally, add the thickening agent. If using Wondra, a few generous shakes is sufficient; if using flour, mix with water first. Stir thoroughly. I have also had some success with, in addition to the lemon juice, putting a piece of lemon rind in the pot before baking. I used the rind from a quarter of the lemon here. 

Ready to reduce

Put the pot in the oven and bake for about 1 hour. It is recommended to stir a few times and taste during baking. If the dish is not thickened to your liking after 1 hour of baking, you can remove the chicken and then reduce the liquid on the stovetop on high heat. I generally do this for at least 5 minutes. At the end, you should always be sure to taste and add salt or pepper if needed.

Coq au Vin

Today I'm blogging from a new location, with a much appreciated gas stove. I'm also continuing the recent trend of "Francophilia" on Sans Déjeuner Gratuit. I have no idea if that was correct French. Coq au vin is a traditional, rustic, and hearty French dish, which, like many French dishes, lends itself to a multitude of regional and personal variations. Traditionally, the dish is made with an old rooster ("coq"), which necessitates a long baking time. With a regular chicken from the grocery store, we don't need to do that. I only baked mine for 30 minutes.

The wine used is generally a red Burgundy, but any good quality French red wine will do. Other variations exist, such as the Alsatian coq au Riesling, one of the many German cultural influences felt in the region. Whatever you choose, I must remind: only cook with a wine you would drink. I consulted, by way of their recipes, many eminent chefs for inspiration, including Julia Child and Alton Brown. In my version, I have attempted to reduce the number of steps, and I've chosen to throw basically all the ingredients in at once before baking the dish.

Ingredients

• 5 strips thick side pork, bacon, or lardons
• 1 whole chicken
• 4 cups button mushrooms (or chopped up larger mushrooms)
• 2-3 carrots
• 2 stalks celery
• 1/2 onion
• 1 jar pearl onions, drained (about 25 pearl onions)
• 2 tsp crushed garlic
• 1/4 cup brandy
• 2 cups chicken stock
• 2 cups red wine (preferably Burgundian)
• 1 bay leaf
• A few sprigs fresh thyme
• A few sprigs Fresh parsley, chopped
• 2 tbs flour
• Salt and pepper
• Olive oil, as needed

Instructions

Cut the bacon or side pork (henceforth referred to as the "pork") into small pieces, about 2/3 inch wide. Cook in a large frying or saute pan until slightly crisped and plenty of fat is rendered into the pan. Remove the pork from the pan, shaking the excess grease back into the pan. Set aside in fridge.

While the pork is cooking, break down the chicken into pieces: 2 legs, 2 thighs, 2 wings, breast cut into 4 pieces, and back cut into 2 pieces. Keep the skin and bones intact. Clean the offal out of the back. Liberally dust with salt and pepper. Working in batches, brown all feasible sides of the chicken pieces in the pork fat and transfer to a large pot or dutch oven. 

Next, thoroughly brown the mushrooms. I did this in two batches. Transfer the mushrooms to the pot with the chicken. While browning the second batch of mushrooms, the pork fat dried up. If this happens, supplement with a little olive oil.

Finely dice the carrots, celery, and onion. Add these, along with the pearl onions and garlic, to the pan. Brown everything. Deglaze the pan with brandy and add to the pot. You can also wait and add the pearl onions at the end, which will preserve their structural integrity.

How many mirepoix photos on one blog is enough?

Add pork, chicken stock, wine, bay leaf, and thyme to the pot. Cover and bake at 375 degrees for 30 minutes.

Before baking

Take the pot out and put it on the stove. Turn up heat to high and bring to a boil. Take the chicken pieces out and set aside to avoid overcooking. Reduce for several minutes, by about half, until the flavors intensify. Add the parsley while doing so. Stir the flour in with a little water to form a slurry. Add to the pot and stir to integrate and thicken the sauce. Taste as you go. At the end, salt and pepper to taste. Mine didn't need any extra salt, but a little pepper gave it a boost.

Notice difference in color and "water level"

Remove bay leaf and thyme sprigs when done. Add the chicken pieces back in and simmer a few minutes. Serve with potatoes (mashed or boiled) or noodles and french bread.

French-Style Lamb Shank

Hello, my dear readers, it's been a busy week full of quick, non-blog-worthy meals. I've returned with my most delicious concoction for a while. I've always loved a lamb shank, and this is my first time cooking my own. We use classic French techniques here, even with a mirepoix and some Dijon mustard. Thanks goes to dad on this one; it's adapted from his recipe. The meat is fall-off-the-bone tender, and what's more fun that picking up a huge piece of meat by the bone and just going at it, Medieval-style? The sauce is great poured over rice with the shank.

Ingredients

• One lamb shank
• 1/4 onion
• 1 clove garlic
• 1 carrot
• 1 stalk celery
• 3/4 cup red wine
• 1/2 cup orange juice
• 1/2 cup crushed tomato
• 2 tbs Dijon mustard
• Chopped flat-leaf parsley
• Oregano
• Orange zest
• Salt and pepper
• Olive oil

Instructions

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Heat a little olive oil in a pan on medium heat. Dice the onion and saute until softened. While the onions cook, mince the garlic and add that partway through. Dice the celery and carrots and add these. Saute everything until lightly browned. 

Mirepoix. Aren't I fancy now?

Season the lamb shank on all sides with salt and pepper. Turn the heat up to medium-high and brown the shank on as many sides as is practical. Briefly remove the shank and add all the rest of the ingredients. Mix together and deglaze the pan. 

After baking

Return the shank to the pan. Tightly cover with foil and bake for 90 minutes. Periodically check the liquid to make sure it doesn't get too dried out. Consider also turning the shank over midway through baking. Be careful when you're taking it out, as the pan will be very hot.

Guinness Stew

To kick off Pub Week, we have a hearty Guinness stew. I did a bit of research beforehand and came up with a sort of amalgam of the recipes floating around on the internet. This one is pretty simple to make. It's also delicious - I just ate it.

Ingredients

• 2 pounds stew beef
• 3 potatoes (red or gold)
• 4 carrots
• 1 sweet onion
• 1 can diced tomatoes
• 1 bottle Guinness (or other stout)
• 4 cups beef broth
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 2 tablespoons flour
• Olive oil
• Salt, pepper, and garlic powder
• Parsley

Instructions

If you don't have beef broth, you can do what I did and heat 4 cups of water in a saucepan and dissolve one bouillon cube in it. Purists may scoff, but I don't care. One cube is enough; we don't want the broth to be too salty.

Have two large bowls ready to set aside ingredients. Season the beef with salt, pepper, and garlic powder. Preheat olive oil in a large pot, high. Brown the meat for a few minutes, one pound at a time. Remove and set aside. When I did this, the beef gave off a lot of liquid. Set this aside with the meat also. 

While the beef is cooking, peel and chop the carrots into disks. Saute the carrots in olive oil for a few minutes, then set aside. While the carrots are cooking, wash and cut up the potatoes into about 10-15 pieces, depending on the size. Add more olive oil and saute these for a few minutes as well. Set aside with the carrots. While potatoes cook, roughly chop the onion into strips. Turn down the heat to medium, add more oil, and brown the onions. 

Once the onions are soft, pour the Guinness and beef broth into the pot. Add beef and tomatoes, along with the juice in the can. Cover and simmer for one hour. Now add the potatoes and carrots back in and cook uncovered for another hour. By now, the meat and vegetables will be very tender.

The star of our show.

If you, like me, desire a thicker broth for your stew, prepare a roux. Melt the butter in a saucepan on medium-low heat. Once the butter is melted, add the flour and stir together. Keep stirring as it cooks to avoid clumping and burning. The roux will bubble and slowly darken. Remove from heat after a few minutes, when the roux attains the color shown below.

Spoon a little of the broth from the stew into the roux and scrape it all into the main pot. Stir to integrate. Now, taste the broth. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Below you'll see what the stew looks like at the end. Serve in bowls and sprinkle parsley over the top of each. I suggest serving with a bread roll to sop up the stew.

Store the remaining stew in the fridge, and you will eat for days!