Sunday, March 6, 2022

Curry Turnovers (咖喱酥)

Curry turnovers are a nostalgic favorite in our family. It was always a great treat when my grandparents showed up with a box of them. A discussion recently got started about reviving the tradition, so I thought it as good a time as any to give this one a go on the blog. I'm so glad I did, because they are just as tasty as I remember. They go by a few different names in Chinese, but the one I went with here, gali su, means "curry pastry."

As it turns out, they are a classic item in Cantonese dim sum and bakeries, with variants popular all over Asia. The good news is that unlike many dim sum items, they are easy to make. They work equally well with afternoon tea, as an appetizer, or a as a late-night snack. This recipe makes about 36 turnovers. We froze some of those (unbaked) for later. Leftovers already baked can be kept in the refrigerator and revived in the toaster oven. In making this version, I referenced several recipes I found online, including Woks of Life and Table for Two

Puff pastry variant

The recipe itself is flexible and forgiving. My research online showed that beef is by far the most common filling, but I know grandpa used pork just as often. I used my homemade Chinese pork stock, but whatever is on hand should work fine. For the seasoning, any curry powder is sufficient, as long as it isn't too hot. I added some turmeric for color. One detail I remember watching grandpa make it was that he added a seasoning packet from a package of ramen noodles. I honor this choice with a little MSG (Ajinomoto) for an umami boost. Premade pie dough is a great shortcut that doesn't compromise significantly on the end product. Turnovers can also be made with puff pastry for a flakier variation.

Ingredients

  • 1 lb. ground chuck (can substitute pork or other meat)
  • 1/2 lb. finely diced onion (about 1 onion)
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced
  • 3 Tbs. curry powder (I used Tone's)
  • 1/2 tsp. white pepper powder
  • 1/2 tsp. MSG
  • 2 tsp. ground turmeric
  • 1 Tbs. Shaoxing wine or dry sherry
  • 1/2 cup stock (whatever you have)
  • 2 tsp. corn starch
  • Salt to taste
  • Vegetable oil
  • 1 egg
  • 3 packaged pie crusts (can substitute 4 sheets of frozen puff pastry, thawed and cut into 9 squares each)

Instructions

Heat some oil in a skillet over high heat. Add the beef and cook until browned. Break up any chunks with a wooden spoon and season with salt as the beef cooks. Set aside when done. Add more oil and turn heat to medium. Add diced onion and cook until softened. Add the garlic and cook a few more minutes. Return the beef to the pan. Add the curry powder, white pepper, MSG, and turmeric. Mix all together and continue cooking a few more minutes. Deglaze with Shaoxing wine. Add stock. Make a slurry with the corn starch and add to the pan. Stir together and cook a bit more. The filling should be moist but not wet at this stage. Taste the filling and add salt as needed. Let the filling cool before making the turnovers. The filling can be held in the refrigerator.


Allow pie crusts to rest outside of the refrigerator per package instructions. Beat the egg with a splash of water to make egg wash. Cut rounds about 3 inches in diameter (a standard pint glass works well). 


To form each turnover, gently stretch a dough round slightly, then add 1 Tbs. filling. Push into a slightly elongated shape in the direction of folding. Dip finger in the egg wash and run it around the edge of the dough. Fold over and pinch to seal. Use a fork to press a pattern into the edge. Brush with egg wash. Ball up any scrap dough, roll out, and cut more rounds. 


Bake the turnovers for 15 minutes at 400 degrees F (375 with convection), until golden brown. Remove from the oven and let cool for a few minutes before serving.

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