Sunday, March 18, 2012

Foods of Fargo-Moorhead


Fargo-Moorhead is nestled in the idyllic Red River Valley, and is birthplace of many (one?) famous blogger(s). It was also the one-time home of celebrated action star Kevin Sorbo. On my recent visit, I returned to many of my favorite restaurants, and it is now my duty to illuminate the world about the culinary wonders of these fine cities. You heard it here first; Fargo is more than snow and funny accents, don'tcha know?

Passage to India

The third in the succession of Indian buffets in Fargo, and the second in its location, Passage to India stands among the best Indian food I've had. Hit the buffet on weekends for the life-changing goat curry stew. You can also count on them to serve one or two weird Indian desserts. I, for one, have tried them all. Go for the rava kesari (cream of wheat with turmeric, cashews, and raisins) or the rice kheer. Avoid the carrot halwa. Those fainter of heart will enjoy the mango cake.

The buffet has a wide variety of curries, soups, rice dishes, tandoori, and pakoras. Dinner is à la carte. Best of all, though? The TVs in the middle of the dining room with constant Bollywood hits. What better way to dine than to be serenaded by Shahrukh Khan?

Cafe Aladdin

My family has frequented Cafe Aladdin since they first opened. I was probably four or five. The owners are such nice people, and they've watched us grow up over the years. The place is very casual, and even since opening a second location, have stuck with Styrofoam plates and plastic forks.

Gyro (shawarma) sandwich with fries

Everything they serve is delicious, and very consistent, over all these years. The food is typical Middle Eastern (the owners are from Jordan), which was quite a novelty in Fargo back then, and really still is. They have all the classics - lamb shawarma, falafel, hummus, stuffed grape leaves, and more. Mom's favorite is a rice platter with lentils and caramelized onions.

Altonys
Dilworth is a small city, slowly being surrounded by the bustling urban expanse of its westward neighbor, Moorhead. Dilworth was historically home to many Italian-Americans. Today, Altonys is essentially what's left of this legacy. But what a legacy it is. In America, before there was risotto, gnocchi, and prosciutto, there was spaghetti and meatballs. This is the kind of place you don't see much anymore; all they're missing is the red checkered tablecloth.

Veal parmesan with spaghetti

Originally, Altonys was a bumbling little family operation that once, in a story famous in my family, turned us away because they had "run out of food." Now under new ownership, they've moved into a former Taco Bell in Moorhead and breathed some class into the old fast-food joint. Along with the good old spaghetti, you can get all the Italian-American favorites: Chicken Parmesan, Penne Alfredo, Lasagna, and ravioli. All this for under ten bucks, with salad and ice cream included, not to mention lunch the next day. What's not to love?

Acapulco
Mexican food is probably the most common ethnic cuisine in the US, with the possible exception of Chinese take-out. Forget about your run-of-the-mill burrito joints and taco shops; Acapulco is the real deal. Like the rest of the restaurants I've written about here, it is a fun, family-run restaurant. Expand your mind away from tacos, and you can sample delicious seafood, soups, and more.

Carne asada with beans, rice, and guacamole

They have an extensive stock of Mexican beers, all served in a frosted glass with a lime wedge: anathema to "beer purists," but to me, it's all part of the experience. Great, fast service and good prices make Acapulco very much the complete package.

2 comments:

  1. Your Fargo-Moorhead restaurant coverage makes this 40-year Moorhead transplant proud.

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  2. I would like to add a few comments about Altony's. The restaurant's first location was Dilworth, just a mile east of Moorhead and opened just a few years ago. It brought back all that is Italian about Dilworth. A lady from one of the local families taught me how to make a Sicilian sugar cookie with white frosting and multi-color sprinkle, an old family recipe. Italian immigrants came to Dilworth to work in the rail yard. There was a butcher shop in Dilworth. I believe it was called Earl's, famous for its Italian sausages. The butcher shop closed a decade or so ago but the sausage recipes went to the local grocery chain, Hornbacher's where the famous sausages are still available. American-Italian food is still served in the Catholic church in Dilworth on special occasions. The tradition lives on in Altonoy's today, although it is under new ownership. The new owner took care to learn to make all the traditional classics exactly as they were. American-Italian cuisine is unique that it isn't what one would find in Italy today. It is an evolved cuisine based on a southern Italian origin but transformed into something uniquely American and of the New World. It was from a time before spaghetti turned into pasta and when red sauce was red and unencumbered with cream, vodka or pancetta. Some may find this cuisine lacking in finesse and sophistication but that is exactly the charm. It is hearty, simple and authentic in its very own way. Grated Parmesan and red pepper flakes are always on the table in those glass jars, topped by stainless steel covers with the holes in them. Altony's doesn't do the red checkered tablecloth or the Chianti flasks with the dripping wax. That would have been too cliche. But everything else is there. It is the anti-foodie vibe that is so attractive about a place like that. Bravo!

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